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| Springer Retreat :: Workshop :: Super-9 Upgrade Guide | ||
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News
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There
is a certain aura surrounding that which is known as the sniper rifle.
While you sure as hell won't find that nice aura around the UHC Super-9,
those of you who got conned into buying this POS will be happy to know
that something can be done... sorta. Okay, let's start with the gun itself.
Like everything else that UHC churns out, this is a copy of what was originally
a Japanese gun: the Marukoshi Super-9 Pro. As is typical of UHC, they
managed to export & sell this sucker for half the price of the Marukoshi's
gun, but I'm strying off here. If you have not figured it out yet, your
Super-9 can either use a rotary magazine or an external ammo tube. The
rotary mag holds five shells, and each can old one BB. Reminds you of
those old Daisy Soft-Air guns, hmm?. In any case, every time you cycle
the bolt, the shell comes out. Good for show, bad for games. The external
mag tube eliminates this problem and gives you thirty rounds, but some
will complain that it looks ugly. Fine. While they're looking for shells
in the midle of a firefight, you'll be chambering your tenth round or
so. So I say go with the mag tube. Now you're going to notice something
else: the gun has a high stock velocity, but accuracy & range suck. The
majority of the UHC Super-9's out there are non hop-up. I hear that the
newer ones have it, but I have yet to try one out for myself. Back on
topic, the gun sucks. Your priority should be to install hop-up. That's
easy. You'll need a drill, a screw, and either 100% silicon epoxy or scrap
rubber & crazy glue. The shaft of the screw should be between two & three
millimeters in diameter. For length, the screw should be one centimeter
in length. Now for the hop-up pad... either dab a nice, round drop of
100% silicon epoxy on the tip if the screw, or cut & glue a wedge of sheet
rubber on the end. If you cut a wedge, make sure that a flat side lines
up with the slot on the screw head. That way, you'll know when an "even"
edge is acting upon the BB. Now the hole... you see where that mag tube
hooks into? From the outer-most rim, measure two centimeters and drill.
I drew another pic for you in case you don't get it (which you probably
won't, my descriptions suck). Take care not to drill too deep, or you'll
bore through the other end of your inner barrel. Now use a screw driver
and secure the screw in place several times to "break-in" the hole. You
want it tight, but loose enough to adjust by hand. Now load a half mag
or so of the same ammo & adjust your hop-up to match the weight. You might
want to write down how many turns are needed for each particular weight
of ammo. I find that the stock spring of the gun is too strong for the
.20's, so try to stick to .25's or heavier. Of course, some of you out
there want more power. To get to the spring, remove the bolt. Near the
nozzle there are two hex screws keeping it in place. Unscrew those, but
be careful-- that sucker will fly out if you're not expecting it. Also
take care not to lose your extractor & spring, just in case you decide
to go back to using shells. Okay, do you have a spring left from a busted
springer hand gun? That's what I used; I'm not dishing out real cash for
this POS gun, so I cut an inch from a handgun spring and added it to the
stock Super-9 spring. Too much tension, however, and the spring cannot
compress enough for the piston to lock back. Once that is adjusted, use
the drill to bore out the nozzle a little; that'll allow more air to get
through. You also might want to add weight to the stock, justto make her
a little more stable. Anything else? Well, no, not really. That's about
all you can do for this POS rifle. Oh, a tip for when you're adjusting
your hop-up: use 1/4 turns. I find that to work out best, too tight and
the BB will jam. Yecch. Good luck, and don't blame me if something breaks.
David "Inferno" Jones [Ed.'s note: Here's his lovely diagram of the above operation. Click to expand.]
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